Costa Rica – First the Birds

It never fails to amaze me that I can get on a plane in a bit of a snowstorm in Baltimore, Maryland and, within a couple of hours, get off that plane in Miami, Florida – just about 972 miles away – to find blue skies and warm breezes. But let’s not stop there. We traveled on to San Jose, Costa Rica – a total of roughly 2098 miles – and we are slap dab in the tropics. All in the space of a single day – Bazinga! There you are, in another country almost in another hemisphere and you’re stripping off layers of jackets and sweaters and long-sleeved shirts trying to get down to something more fitting for summertime weather.

kingfisherWe landed in San Jose in the afternoon ….just in time for their version of rush hour. A driver picked us up at the airport and transported us to our hotel for the first couple of days in country. The driver had a very young and very nice assistant who spoke enough English to make the journey a little less hectic. It sounded like he told me that the locals call rush hour, “dunde pickle”. I know very little Spanish – you know, the basics – “hello”, “goodbye”, “thank you”, “where the heck is the bathroom” – so I cannot tell you what the young man was really saying to me or whether or not I was even hearing the phrase correctly but it does have a ring of truth in it no matter what the language. I can tell you, having experienced more traffic jams in my life than I care to, you are usually in some kind of a pickle or another when you’re stuck in traffic so “dunde pickle” sounds like a pretty good interpretation to me.

bg tanagerWe arrived at a beautiful hotel that seemed to arise out of nowhere. We were riding along down a crowded street where all the houses looked the same and included forbidding wrought iron fences and gates, some with razor wire strung across the tops of the fences, when we came to a imposing stone fence and ornate gateway hiding beautifully landscaped gardens and an old world style lodge. The Hotel Bougainvillea was as charming and lovely as the name implies…and there were tons of bougainvillea growing and blooming everywhere. I am not really sure if we could ever have found the hotel by ourselves. In the case of Costa Rica, I have learned that it is probably best to leave the driving to someone else. But I will leave traffic and the hotels in Costa Rica for another day; today, it is all about the birds.

red legsWe went to Costa Rica to see birds. And birds we saw. In the twelve (12) days we stayed in Costa Rica, we recorded 188 species of birds. All but a handful of these were birds we had never seen before…..all life birds for us. One of the very first species we saw was a gorgeous Baltimore Oriole and do not think that the irony of traveling two thousand miles to see a Baltimore Oriole was lost on us. But the pair of Orioles were beautiful and started us out right. For the next eleven days we traveled to three different locations in the country looking for and enjoying birds in a variety of different environments.

I won’t try to include a list of the birds here but I have recorded the birds at eBird.org. I have annotated the lists at eBird.org to be “shared” so, if you are so inclined you can review the list there or you can view the list here. In all, we took more than 1000 photos and then when we got home and looked at all of them on the computer screen, I think I may have deleted roughly about half of them. My standing joke is that when I show photos of the birds I have seen, all of their names begin with “blurry” as in, “Here is another blurry eagle photo”.   I like birding and I like taking pictures but I hate carrying around a large camera so I make compromises about the camera size and capabilities so I get some basic photographs that work for me but certainly will not win any awards. I am sharing some of the bird photographs that came out best and not necessarily sharing photos of the birds that impressed me most.

quetzalThe bird that was probably the most photographed bird by everyone we encountered on the trip was the Resplendent Quetzal. Even our guide stopped pointing out all other birds when a Quetzal came into view. We were staying at the Sevegre Mountain Lodge in the cloud forest where the Quetzals live and everyone there was fascinated with the birds. The driver that delivered us to the lodge and two days later returned to pick us up was totally besotted with the Quetzal. He told us that the bird was the national bird of Honduras and seemed miffed that Costa Rica had chosen the lowly but common Clay Colored Thrush (also called a Robin) as its national bird. He (German – that’s pronounced Herman as he told us right from the start) told us that he had not seen a Quetzal in more than 4 years and that most Costa Ricans lived their whole lives without ever seeing a Quetzal. It reminded me of our own Bald Eagle and how exciting it is for most Americans to see a Bald Eagle for the first time.

I have to pause a moment to remind everyone as I was reminded while in Central America that we from the United States refer to ourselves as “Americans” but we are not the only “Americans”. In point of fact, anyone living in the western hemisphere (North, South, and Central America) can correctly be called “Americans”. But, although this was pointed out to me, I suspect most citizens of Canada, Central and South America do not always want to be bunched in with the United States. Sometimes it is good to be “American” and sometimes I think the non-USA folks do not necessarily want to be included in the mix with us North-but-not-Canada Americans.

Okay, enough politics and back to Quetzals and our driver, German. To finish up the thought, as we were driving out of the valley on this rough, washed out, gravel (washboard all the way) road with an incline of about 80 degrees, German saw a man with a scope on the side of the road and promptly stopped the van, jumped out and rushed over to see the Quetzal that we had just spotted in the tree. As he stopped, I told him that we had seen several Quetzals while at the lodge and that “it was okay by us” if he didn’t stop to view this one. He jumped out of the van and called over his shoulder as he ran that “it is not okay by me”. So I got out and grabbed my binoculars for one last look at one of the birds. What else could I do? Interestingly enough, the nice young man at the side of the road with a scope with a digiscope/camera attachment graciously offered to let us take a look at the bird through his scope. German, in excitement at seeing a Quetzal, just started taking pictures with the nice guy’s camera. The nice guy, amazingly enough, seemed to understand and didn’t say a word…..at least that I heard.

cc thrushI mentioned the Clay Colored Thrush which is Costa Rica’s national bird. And I must say that German, for one, wasn’t very happy about that but “What can you do? The Government says it must be this way.” The Clay Colored Thrush, also called a robin by most people we met there, is very common and can be seen pretty much throughout Costa Rica. Perhaps it is the fact that Clay Colored Thrushes are so prevalent throughout the country that made it the ideal candidate for national bird. After all, it would be difficult to find anyone who lives in or visits Costa Rica who hasn’t seen or heard the Clay Colored Thrush. It was one of the first new birds we encountered and one of the last we saw before departing for the airport on our way out. It is a beautiful cinnamon color, looks very much like a robin in shape and form, and seems to sing from dawn to dusk every day. Of course, I was advised by one of our birding guides that American Robins are not really robins, they are also thrushes. It seems that English colonists settling the US saw the birds and, thinking they looked quite a bit like the robins in Europe, promptly named them American Robins. I haven’t researched this but it makes sense. I’ll put it in my notes as something I should check on another day.

potooThe most unusual bird we saw had to have been the Great Potoo. And this was like a “bonus” bird in that I’m betting most birders who go to the country for the first time might not have the opportunity to see this bird. Our guide, Eric, knew another guide who knew someone who had spotted the bird in a tree in front of a private residence. They painted a big sign on the side of the road that says, “Potoo” so the guides in the area would know which house. I tried to imagine someone painting a sign like that near a house in our neighborhood back home….wouldn’t the homeowner’s associations just love that? Not to worry, Eric had contacted the homeowners and gotten permission to bring his birding groups to see the bird. It was pretty awesome. Of course, I say we saw the bird but I have to tell you that this bird has to be the most well-camouflaged bird known to man. It is definitely the hardest to see that I have ever seen. The bird is nocturnal and spends its days sitting motionless on a limb of a tree. It looks exactly like just another dead branch jutting out of the tree. Even when Eric set the scope up to view the bird, it was amazing to think that there was a bird there at all. The photo here is the best I could get considering the lighting was not great (late afternoon) and the bird was so well concealed – in plain sight. The homeowners did not speak any English but they offered us fresh fruit and told us (through our guide) stories about the Potoo and its habits. And they advised that the Potoo was a parent and there was a baby. Now, I was having enough trouble differentiating the bird itself from the tree and now they tell me there is a baby somewhere up there on that limb too. And there was! You had to view it through the scope and wait patiently. Every 5 minutes or so, the little guy would peek out from the adult bird’s feathers and gave us a quick view. It was nothing more than a little ball of fur that made me wish I could see more but it was not to be – he was safe in mom’s (or dad’s) feathers. What an experience that was.

motmotNow my favorite bird was the Motmot. I don’t know whether it was the name or the funny call it made or the beauty of the bird itself but I really liked the Motmot. We saw two different ones, the Blue-Diademed (or Crowned) Motmot in the rainforest and the Turquoise-Browed Motmot down near the Pacific coast. Both were very beautiful and, after seeing the first one earlier in the week, I was thrilled to see a second type on our very last day of birding before we headed home.

mountaingemFiery hummingbirdJerry’s favorite bird was one of the hummingbirds. And there were hummingbirds everywhere. If you hang out a feeder in Costa Rica, you will get hummingbirds absolutely (apparently). We saw 17 different species on our trip. Now that is like sensory overload when you consider that we only really have the 1 species in Maryland, the Ruby-Throated Hummingbird (although there are a couple migrants that pass through now and then). We visited a privately owned preserve called Bosque De Paz and spent several hours just sitting outside at a pavilion watching and photographing hummingbirds. Now, you might tell yourself that I should be a hummingbird expert at this point. Nope, not a chance. I have to go through all the photographs and try to figure out which is which. I have the names written down but the birds all run together in my mind. I’m thinking that there must be a more organized way to identify the birds associated with the photos but, if there is, I didn’t do a very good job of it. But, I do know that Jerry’s favorite was the White-Throated Mountaingem. We had seen the Purple-Throated Mountaingem near Basque de Paz; the White-Throated Mountaingem was spotted at Sevegre Mountain Lodge. Now, the males of the two species are quite gorgeous but it is the females that captured Jerry’s heart. He was smitten from first sight.

caracaraI would be remiss if I didn’t mention the bigger birds. The two Tiger Herons, Bare-Throated and Fasciated, were both beautiful birds. Of the raptors, the Laughing Falcon, the Swallow-Tailed Kite, the White-Tailed Kite, the Yellow-Headed Caracara, and the Black Hawk and its cousin, the Mangrove Black Hawk, were all spectacular. The Black and Crested Guans were also pretty amazing. I quickly ran out of adjectives to use and started to attempt to use a little Spanish here and there saying the birds were “mucho bueno”. Eric (our ever patient guide) suggested I might try British phrases like falcon“splendid” or “fascinating” instead when I ran out of colorful words to describe the beautiful birds. Guess I was doing a pretty good job of butchering his language and he figured getting me back to English would be a good idea.

Now, of course, we saw Macaws, Parrots, Parakeets, and Toucans. Some we saw flying over the hills and valleys near the house where we saw the Potoo. Others we saw at the rainforest at La Selva Biological Station. La Selva is a part of the Organization for Tropical Studies which is an institution owned jointly by a consortium of universities and is pretty much a “must see” for anyonetoucan visiting Costa Rica. We spent several very hot and humid days at an eco-lodge called Selva Verde near La Selva. I would like to say I got some wonderful photos of the Toucans and Parrots and, especially, the Scarlet Macaws but, alas, those dratted birds liked to stay high up in the trees hiding in the branches and leaves. We got good views of them but not so good photographs. Those were some of the first photos I deleted when I got home. Oh well, gives me good reason to go back to Central America in the future and try again.

I know I could go on for hours remembering the birds and I could make you all totally crazy with my stories but I think I will save some stories for the next blog or for when I see you in person. Please do not run away when you see me coming wearing my brand new Costa Rica t-shirt and toting my big book of blurry bird photographs. I promise I won’t make you look at all of them….at least not in one sitting.a woodpecker

 

Philly, Flowers and A Friend

phillyIt all started for Philadelphia way back in 1829. The Pennsylvania Horticulture Society (PHS) was founded in 1827 and the first show was held at the Masonic Hall on Chestnut Street in 1829.  The Show was moved to the Civic Center in the 1960’s and stayed there until 1996 when it was moved to its current location at the Convention Center.  The Civic Center was where I first encountered it along with my “bestest” gardening buddy, Glo.  We had met in the vanpool in 1992 and had discovered right off the bat that we both loved growing things.  During those long slow morning commutes, we talked about flowers and growing things and maybe going to the world famous Philadelphia Flower Show.

If you garden on the east coast (or anywhere in America really), you will, no doubt, have heard of the Philadelphia Flower Show. Glo and I decided that we needed to go and so we did. And we continued going for, gosh, maybe 15 years.  The Horticultural Society has a long tradition of conducting the shows and we have our long tradition of going to see them.  It works out for both sides of that equation.

For Glo and me, tradition was simple.  We took the train from New Carrollton to Philadelphia. On the way, we caught up on things and enjoyed a brunch – well, sort of – we always had a Bloody Mary and some bagels with cream cheese. There is nothing quite like relaxing and enjoying a late breakfast and libations as the train rumbles through the Maryland and Pennsylvania countryside on its way to Philly.  Our adventure usually continued with a taxi ride to the Convention Center and an exhausting day at the show.  We are creatures of habit so we usually stroll through the exhibits for several hours….okay, strolling as much as the crowds will allow…..sometimes we crept and bumped our way through the exhibits.  Then we headed upstairs to the food court for a snack and to take a load off our feet.  Then, after another couple hours going through the vendor side of the show and buying those things we couldn’t possibly do without but still small enough to lug home on the train, we walked the 6 blocks or so down to the Irish Pub – 12th Street Location – on Walnut Street (gotta love Philly).  After a dinner and a nice Irish Coffee, we grabbed a cab and headed back to the train station where we caught our train and mostly nodded and dozed our way back to Maryland.

And so it went for many years – this tradition of ours – until arthritis put my walking and roaming days on hold.  Our last show together was in 2007 and we talked about it and missed it every year since then.   I just couldn’t trust my knees to hold up even after having total replacements in 2011…that is, until this year.   I had been thinking it was time to get back up on the horse and give the show another try. So we started making plans. We opted to drive this year and I recruited Jerry to go along as our driver. He wasn’t keen on going to the show but thought a weekend (in the middle of the week – we would never try to brave the crowds on the actual weekend) in Philadelphia might be fun.  So this year, we revived our tradition – Bloody Marys and all – and headed back to the show.  In case you’re wondering, our driver was not keen on the fact that he had to drive and was only allowed the bagels part of the breakfast but that is just the way it goes – drivers get nothing.  Our plan was to go to the show and send Jerry off to find our hotel for the night. ( I’ll take a moment to give a plug  – the Holiday Inn Express – Midtown on Walnut Street was very nice and very accommodating and maybe about 4 blocks from the Convention Center…..close enough to walk if your tired feet will allow it after viewing the 10 acres of exhibits at the show.) Just one more little note – the flower show includes 33 indoor acres with 10 acres of exhibits.  More than 250,000 visitors attend the show each year.  If you go in the future, plan to spend at least one day and expect to be very tired when you are done.

Display 1The show this year was called “ARTiculture” to celebrate the combination of “Art” in “Horticulture”.  You can find out more about the theme at the official PHS website – Philadelphia Flower Show.   You can also find highlights of the show with photos at that site. I would not normally refer you to another site for highlights and photos but I had my own Murphy’s Law moment no sooner than we arrived at the show and started checking out the exhibits. I had decided to leave the good camera in the car and just take my small Sony point & click camera into the show. My rationale was that the Sony was small, easy to carry, and we’d be taking photos of displays in crowded conditions and wouldn’t require too much zoom, etc.   SO I took maybe three photos and, of course, got the dead battery signal just before it went kaput entirely.  No problem, I will just do like everyone else and use my phone to take photos. The phone photos are not bad but they are also not great. Mea culpa – we get what we get and it is what it is.

orchidLet me start by saying this year’s show like every show that I remember was overwhelming. This is the grandmother of all American flower shows and it shows (pun intended) in every single exhibit. From the grand display at the entrance to the tiniest miniature exhibit at the back, this show is about flowers.  We have been to other shows in Washington, DC and Baltimore but those are more “home and garden” shows and tend to focus on the vendors and what they sell.  The Philadelphia show is a “faire extraordinaire” and the focus is on flowers and exhibits and competition.  (Yes, I am aware that you usually don’t see “faire” and “extraordinaire” together in this way in normal text. I googled it and checked Wikipedia and decided to use it anyway.  My intended meaning is a great big fair that was totally awesome…incorrect use of French phrase notwithstanding.) The exhibits are judged and ribbons are given for 1st, 2nd, 3rd place and honorable mention so it is like a country fair in that context. Most home and garden shows do not do this but at Philly, I think this competition brings out the creativity in the exhibits.  You never know what you will see or how flowers and plants will be used in a particular exhibit. It is not about some vendor’s product line – it is about the plants.  To win a blue ribbon is quite an accomplishment and reading the judge’s critiques adds to the pleasure of seeing the exhibits.

display 2Back to this year’s theme – it was right on point for Glo who was fascinated with all the different crafts and artwork on display. Art was the theme and all of the exhibits were about art. For me, it was a little disappointing. I like the flowers and plants and landscaping displays more than the art.  Don’t get me wrong, I dearly love art (and junk) in the garden but many of the exhibits this year were so focused on the art that they didn’t do much with landscaping. There were plenty of huge floral arrangements and plenty of exhibits covered with organic materials.  If you like the Rose Bowl Parade each year at Thanksgiving, you would have loved the Philly show this year.  Art pieces were created using organic materials – like the big Rose Bowl floats – and some of it was quite good and, to use my overworked word, extraordinary.  Glo loved it and came away with so many ideas for art projects to do back at home that I expect not to see her for months while she goes into a creative frenzy implementing all those ideas.

winter gardenI cannot begin to describe all of the beautiful exhibits but I will tell you about my favorite from the show. Okay, one of my favorites.  There was a section of landscaping exhibits that were inspired by paintings.  The exhibit included the painting so that you could see the inspiration piece and decide how well the exhibitor captured the art in the display.  It was also one of the more controversial ones, I suppose. It showed what I would call a winter garden.  Every gardener knows the value of having good “bones” in the garden and including those structural elements that add interest to the garden in winter.  But this exhibit took that a little further and appeared to feature the beauty in winter-dead plants in the garden. I loved it. I am notorious for not cutting down dead plants until spring. I like the look of golden grasses and seed heads and I also like that birds love those seed heads and hiding in the grasses during the winter.  The neighbors might not approve and see nothing more than dead things when every brown stem is not cleared from the yard in autumn but I like it.  One other thing to consider – it is not unusual to see a floral arrangement with bright blooms but imagine that someone took the time to “arrange” dead grasses and thistle and milkweed in about a 20X20 foot space to make it look like a lovely winter meadow.  To me, that was amazing.  Do you suppose they just went out to a field and took up the sod with the plants intact to create the space? You never know with these displays.

balls for gloGlo’s favorite: There was a display with giant balls covered and filled with organic materials – seeds and petals and nuts and leaves – and arranged into colorful displays.  Glo has giant vine-woven balls in her garden already so I fully expect to see giant hoops and circles and balls covered with dried flower petals in her flower beds the next time I visit her garden.

jewelOf course, the miniature exhibits caught her eye too. Her sister is also an artist who specializes in miniatures. If you think creating regular artwork is difficult, try doing it in miniature.  One of my favorite miniature pieces was in the “jewelry” section and was a piece depicting a bird, of course.  The photo I’ve included doesn’t do it justice – it was an incredible piece.

bonsaiAnd there were the bonsai. I am always captivated by these small trees and the age of some of the trees. This is a hobby that is a lifetime commitment. Some of the trees have been in “training” for decades.  I suppose the bonsai artist (hobbyist? technician?) is really the one in training for all those years because it seems as if they are always perfecting the tree notwithstanding that they always look so perfect to me.

painted treesWas there something I hated? Yep. I absolutely do not think it is art to strip trees or shrubs of their leaves and paint the branches fluorescent colors. I love color in a garden especially a winter garden and I love seeing the shape of trees without their leaves in the winter, but painting a tree seems to me to be just this side of blasphemy.

display 4I could go on forever….the show is just that big. We finally wound down and found that we were hungry and exhausted and pretty much broke.  But it is impossible not to buy something with maybe 200 vendors selling everything from A to Z – seeds, plants, pots, jewelry, outdoor furniture….you name it. We always hit the tropical bulb vendors to see what new and AMAZING things are being sold. I got a great firecracker lily there a few years ago that is still thriving and blooms right around the 4th of July each year. How cool is that? Don’t ask how many things I bought, dragged them home, and then, using my inept green thumb, promptly killed – well, let die.  This year I added Foxtail Lilies to my collection. At least I am hoping it lives long enough to become part of my garden. It is supposed to be hardy but I am questioning that so I’ll probably plant them (I got three rhizomes) in pots and see how it goes.

display 3Unlike past years, I did not buy a bouquet of roses this year. There used to be a vendor at the show – a local nursery – who built a bleacher type display and had hundreds of containers of fresh cut roses in all colors and shades staged on the tiers of the bleachers. The rose stand was unbelievably beautiful and popular. Crowds of people would surround the stand to buy the roses. It was an adventure getting up to the front of the stand to buy a bouquet. The sellers were on a platform above the show floor in front of the roses so you had to reach up to give them your money. Then you would point to the roses you wanted – a single color or a variety of colors – your pick. For $5, you got a dozen roses and a little baby’s breath thrown in for good measure.  When you got there, it was like you won the roses.  It was special and it was a tradition – every year, I brought home a dozen roses but I do not buy the roses anymore.  A few years ago, things got all civilized and they stopped selling roses that way. You can still buy roses, or course, but the rose stand is just the same as all the others and pretty much the same as you see at the local grocery store. No bleachers – no crowds – no 5 dollar bill clutched in your hand as you made your way inch by inch to the front of the crowd.  It is just not the same.

herbsAs noted, after about five hours, we were plumb worn out and ready to leave. No, we did not see everything – not by a long shot – but we saw most of it and that will give us lots to talk about for months to come. Thank goodness the hotel was not far away. We were so tired and it was cold – we had left our jackets in the car so we didn’t have to tote them around all day. So we took a cab to the hotel – a dollar per block was well worth it.  After a bit of rest – just a wee bit because we were hungry too, we headed out for dinner.  The Irish Pub seemed like a thousand miles away so we asked the hotel bellhop for advice on good places to eat. We took the closest one – right next door – The Walnut Street Supper Club.   I have to give kudos to the Supper Club. The food was great, the service good, and the atmosphere was even better.  I’d eat there again in a flash.

high heelsIt was a long and exhausting day.  The old knees made it but I was tired and sore and my joints ached. I was glad we decided to stay overnight rather than try to drive home that evening.  The best thing was not the show or the exhibits or the flowers – it was the time I have spent with my friend over the years and the memories we have made. Sometimes traditions seem to get in the way of progress and moving forward but traditions with friends and family are very much worth keeping.  I expect that we will keep going to the Philly show as long as we possibly can and I hope that the Horticultural Society never loses its drive to keep the show going forever.

Now, speaking of making progress and new adventures – I hear the Chelsea Flower Show is really cool and includes both outside and indoor exhibits and is absolutely the place to go for anyone who thinks they might have a green thumb worth a plug nickel.  Glo – are you reading this? Are you ready to start a new tradition?

See also The Tidewater Gardener’s blog on the Flower Show – he included some awesome photos. Guess he checked the camera battery before going to the show. 🙂

voodoo