Florida Plan – Strictly For The Birds

ding darlingWe had a plan….a good plan…..a well thought out plan to take us through southern Florida and some of the best birding ever and all in 30 days (more or less).  Well, I thought it was a good plan and I had done considerable research and had created a nice short eleven page listing of places to see with links and directions and notes and big plans to see every single place on the list. It was to be the best trip ever with birding extraordinaire and all in a place where it was warm and it wasn’t snowing and there were no ice storms or winter weather warnings and, more importantly, no signs that read, “Bridges Freeze Before Roadways”.  HA! There would be no bridge freezing at all – we were just not going to have any of that in the Sunshine State. End of story – just sunshine and birds and maybe some fishing. Because you see, I HAD A PLAN.

merritt 2I know you’re thinking about my last blog (Snowbirds Test Flight) and how the best laid plans get all hosed up in the implementation stage.  Well, you’re wrong. The plan worked marvelously. We spent a glorious thirty-four days (longest vacation ever) doing exactly what we set out to do.

I mentioned my list. It was a bit optimistic but it was a good starting point. It wasn’t our first trip to Florida so we had an idea about the lay of the land (very flat) and the type of birds we’d be seeing (lots of Herons and Egrets and Hawks and Ibises and Pelicans) and a few rare birds that we wanted to see (Kites and Burrowing Owls and Scrub Jays). We knew the Auto Train would drop us in Sanford so we planned to travel first up the road to Deland and visit an uncle who would show us around while trying to convince us mightily that we should pack up and move to Deland. It is always good to find someone who is excited about where they live and who loves to show you the sights around town.

delandOur plan was to go from there straight to the east coast and the Atlantic and, more specifically, Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge. We’d been once before in summer but we’d heard the best birding is in winter so we were going back. From there we would head down the east coast and bird the areas around the main corridors of Route 1 (yep, the same one that begins and Maine and ends in Key West) and Interstate 95. We would head down to Miami and then work our way across Florida on the Tamiami Trail. Once on the west coast, we’d hit the highs around Fort Myers and then head north. We’d incorporate a visit with friends at Bradenton for the fishing part….at least for my better half. I have found that he will do a tremendous amount of birding day in and day out if he knows there is fishing somewhere in the mix.  Then we’d continue north along the Gulf Coast up past Tampa (with a short visit with my sister thrown in) to Crystal Springs and then over to Ocala to visit an aunt. Finally, we’d bird our way back to Sanford and catch the train back home. I had taken to calling this “the loop” since a look at a map of Florida shows us looping our way through the southern part of the state and ending up in Sanford right back where we started.

MerrittAnd, pretty much, that is exactly what we did. The first part of the plan went very well except for the part about finding that hotel rooms wouldn’t be as easy to find as we’d thought (as I explained in my last blog).  The only real changes to the plan came on the Gulf Coast part of the loop.  My sister’s move to Tampa was delayed and then our aunt called to say that she would be out of town taking care of some unexpected business so we ended up bypassing Tampa and rethinking our plans for Ocala. So, we ended up in the lake district outside Orlando. I know you’re thinking, “Orlando…Disneyworld…kids…..traffic…Yikes!” but Orlando is actually more than Disneyworld and turned out to be good for birding and good for just plain roaming around checking things out in the central part of the state. Besides, what’s wrong with Disney except for all that traffic near the park?

Florida State ParksAll in all, we visited 53 parks and refuges and preserves that I counted specifically…..some parks were little more than community recreational ball fields with minimal birding opportunities so I didn’t really count them.  I had used the Great Florida Birding Trail and eBird to plan many of the sites on my list. Otherwise, we discovered we liked the Florida State Parks which had apparently been voted the best in the United States in the past by some authority or another.  We bought an annual pass and checked out their nifty guide to state parks and started incorporating the parks into our trip.  We also found that there are quite a few county and local parks that have pretty good walking and hiking trails. Since water is pretty much everywhere, even in the dry season, there are apt to be birds everywhere.  I do have to mention that the birds are not all huddled up in one spot just waiting for you though. They are spread out all over the state so you do have to go out looking for them…and they can be darned hard to find sometimes!

sebastianNow, having said that, I have to say that Florida is about the best state that I have visited for birding and hiking if you are older or have arthritis or not in the best of health or physical shape. Many of the refuges and preserves have extensive boardwalks through the wetlands and excellent nature centers. There are regularly scheduled activities for all age groups throughout the year. In the bigger parks, most of the boardwalks are fully accessible and walking trails are paved. I was amazed at how many of the parks included some sort of boardwalk or observation deck that accommodated wheelchairs and walkers. There are, of course, wilder areas with unpaved paths and rustic facilities (those dreaded porta-potties) for those who swear that you can only enjoy wildlife if you are hot and sweaty, plagued by mosquitos, ants, and bees, and you have to hike over rough trails for miles on sore feet. But I like my creature comforts so I was pleasantly surprised at how many good birding sites were also great parks in general that can be very easily enjoyed by all ages no matter what shape you are in.

blue heronI was also impressed by the Florida water management practices and how many wetlands are water treatment facilities that are set up with boardwalks and walking paths or that allow you to drive through the impounds.  It seems birds like water and really like water that smells quite yukky because we saw lots of birds in the impoundments at water treatment facilities and we got great opportunities to bird while breathing very carefully through our mouths and not directly through our noses. Notwithstanding the smell, I do wish more states would consider driving and walking trails through treatment facilities or, I suppose, landfills too. But, then again, maybe it is only birders who would visit such places.

But I digress (how unusual is that?). Back to the plan and the birds, I recorded 112 species on eBird with 15 lifebirds on more than 70 checklists.  Of these 15 lifebirds, there were 5 that we had seen before so technically weren’t lifebirds for us….they just hadn’t ever been recorded by us on eBird before. To add 10 new lifebirds on any trip was big and we were quite pleased with these results.  As noted, there were plenty Egrets, Herons, and Pelicans but, as we meandered, we seemed to be birding more inland sites away from the shoreline so we really didn’t record very many shorebirds. There were gulls a plenty everywhere we went but they were mostly Laughing Gulls so we didn’t really see many rarities in terms of gulls or shorebirds.  I did hear a non-birder refer to a Swallow-Tailed Kite as a Frigate bird but it really wasn’t and we were not really anywhere near where we might actually see Frigate birds (too far inland) although it would have been nice…but it wasn’t… so no bingo there…..although I found myself wondering if he went home and told everyone about the Magnificent Frigate Bird he spotted in the northern part of the Everglades. I know I would be.

Blue Springs SPThe most birds at any one site were spotted at Merritt National Wildlife Refuge. The least birds we saw at any one site had to be at Seminole Collier State Park (but that was just a drive through so who can say how many birds we might have tallied had we gotten out and walked the trails?) The most crowded place (in terms of people not birds) we birded was at Green Cay Nature Center & Wetlands – who knew so many just plain tourists would want to walk the boardwalk through the wetlands? I have to admit that Green Cay was also one of the nicest birding venues we visited so I can totally understand all those people taking a weekend stroll through the preserve.

On the other hand, the most crowded place we went to and almost birded was Wakodahatchee Wetlands. We went twice and could not even get into the place. The first time, we couldn’t even turn into the parking lot from the main road. The second time we made it into the parking lot but there was a line queued up getting to the boardwalk.  A LINE!! Can you imagine waiting to get onto a boardwalk to go birding? Just unbelievable! We didn’t stay. We put Wakodahatchee on the list for next time with a note to go at odd hours on weekdays.

ibisThe least crowded place we visited was the Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge. No, we didn’t see any panthers and we didn’t see many birds. There were wildflowers and it was very peaceful and quiet but very empty, or at least to me, it appeared that way. We were the only visitors when we arrived so headed out on a looping trail. We were about a quarter mile into the refuge when we stopped at an observation platform to check out some wildflowers when a young couple walked up behind us and just about scared the socks right off of me.  They went on ahead of us but then turned back after a bit so, for the most part, we were left alone on the trail. We never saw another person during the remainder of our two hour walk until we arrived back at the parking lot where we found a young couple with car trouble waiting for roadside assistance and another photographer/birder who quickly disappeared down a trail. We checked to make sure the young couple was okay and then headed out on our way.

sandhill

I suppose one might wonder where we saw the “best birds”. It’s an impossible question to answer for me, or, perhaps, for any birder. A friend once asked me what my favorite bird was. I thought about this for several minutes ticking through a mental list of scores of birds we’ve seen over the past few years and the only answer I could come up with was, that my favorite bird is the one I’m looking at right now…at any given moment.  Every bird is beautiful – yes, even the vulture – and fascinating in its own way.  Every memory of birds we’ve seen is just as nice as the others. I suppose some stand out but then, once I think of another, that one gets my attention and is great too.  I just cannot pick one that I like more than the others.  I’ve tried. I just cannot pick a favorite bird.

I will certainly tell you more about the places we visited in blogs to come. Suffice to say, our plan worked, we had great birding and we would do it again in a heartbeat. Besides, I’ve updated my list and there are still plenty of places to go in Florida….and there’s Wakodahatchee to get back to at some point.  As long as birds have wings, we’ll probably be out there, binoculars in hand trying to find them.

cattle egret

First Day Birding – Blackwater Refuge & Oakley Street

SunsetHappy New Year!  Once again, my faithful companion (husband and fellow bird watcher) decided that the best possible thing we could do on New Year’s Day was to go out and do a little bird watching. Now, I know most folks (me included at times) opt to just say “birding” to describe what bird and nature lovers do when they go out and tramp through the woods and roam the coastlines looking for birds but I am not so official and scientific or organized in my hunts (haunts would probably be the better word) so I generally describe myself as a bird watcher or bird lover rather than a birder. But, then again, when we go out in the forests and to the beaches with binoculars and camera we are really hunting for birds and hoping to spend some time watching them. On the other hand (YIKES!) the word hunting brings up all sorts of negative connotations. We certainly do not shoot them….except with a camera, that is. So, I guess the best way to describe the hobby is bird finding….because we certainly are in hopes of finding them and getting a few good photographs along the way.

But, as usual, I digress. The point is that we started a bit of a new tradition last year and going for two years in a row, we headed out again this year to do a little bird finding on January 1st. Last year we explored a local park that we had never birded before and you can read about that HERE.  This year I wasn’t too sure where I wanted to go. There are several new hotspots in the area that I want to check out and there were lots of reports of a pair of Snow Buntings being seen at another local park – Sandy Point State Park – and there were reports of a Cape May Warbler being seen regularly at a local “park & ride”.  Temptations were many but we had narrowed the options down to two – Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge and Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge – both birding hotspots for wintering waterfowl and both beautiful places to visit even if you never saw one bird. But that would be pretty much impossible – there are always birds at Bombay and at Blackwater.

On the plus side for Bombay Hook: There have been reports of hundreds of Snow Geese and Canada Geese along with a few reports of a Snowy Owl and lingering reports of a Sandhill Crane which had been a regular visitor during the fall months.  We had visited Bombay during our November trip to bird along the Jersey shore and had enjoyed a wonderful day there seeing plenty of ducks and Coots and Pintails but had missed seeing the Sandhill Crane. And, I had read one birding report that there was a Screech Owl living out of an owl house way over by Bear Swamp and that would definitely be a life bird for me if I got lucky enough to catch the little guy at home.  Yes, Bombay was very enticing but it is a little further away from us over in Delaware but certainly do-able for a day trip although we prefer to stay overnight and catch the refuge in the afternoon on the first day and in the morning on the second.  But other obligations meant that we could not stay overnight so would have to limit ourselves to a day trip which, as noted, was certainly possible.

refuge 2Now, on the other hand, we hadn’t been to Blackwater Refuge in the past year and were certainly due a trip there to check out the newly renovated and re-opened Visitor Center. Also, we’d been hearing of Tundra Swans and Snow Geese at Blackwater too so, where ever we went, we knew we’d see quite a few birds…although mostly Geese and Ducks. And, while there are Bald Eagles at Bombay, in the past we have generally seen lots of Bald Eagles at Blackwater. But tipping the scales firmly in favor of Blackwater is a little place called Oakley Street.

oakley st mapNow, Oakley Street is not a part of Blackwater Refuge. It is just a waterfront street in downtown Cambridge nearby where birders and mainly bird photographers have, over the years, taken to feeding the wild ducks that winter over there on the Choptank River. The ducks cooperate by moving in close to the shore thereby allowing the photographers to get excellent close up shots of birds that are usually not possible. We had heard of the spot and were anxious to check it out.  So, the decision was made. We would head out early (for us), swing by Oakley Street and then on into Blackwater for a delightful day of bird finding and watching.

And, it was a beautiful day.  I wasn’t sure about where exactly on Oakley Street the “sweet spot” could be found but I figured we’d put Oakley Street into our trusty GPS (otherwise known as the Road Witch because of the female voice which nags us to make U-turns when we miss a turn we’ve been instructed to make or otherwise get off course) and drive up and down the street until we find the “feeding” place.  I needn’t have worried.  Oakley Street is only about a mile long and dead ends at the waterfront. Once you turn right onto Oakley, you have nowhere to go except the end of the road where we found an older gentleman sitting in a chair pulled up to the concrete bulkhead with a camera whose lens was as long as my arm. He had a small bucket of shelled corn and occasionally tossed a handful over the bulkhead which, of course, brought the ducks in to dive for the quickly disappearing kernels of corn.

We parked and got all jacketed and gloved up (yes, it was frightfully cold although sunny and clear), grabbed binoculars and my camera and headed over.  A nice lady from one of the waterfront apartments stopped and chatted with us for a few moments. She noted that she should just allow birders to come and watch the ducks from her apartment where it was warm…..for a small fee. I think she was just making conversation and joking about charging for people to use her apartment to see the ducks so we didn’t pursue the opportunity….but it was mighty tempting.(Hmmmm….maybe I should have asked what she was offering to drink before I turned her down.)

wigeonredheadThere were quite a few ducks and geese there…predominantly American Wigeons and Canvasbacks. In among the Canvasbacks were a few Redheads that were difficult to pick out for photographs.  Since I do not have a camera with a long lens, I loved that the Wigeons and Canvasbacks came in close to the shoreline.  There were also a few Canada Geese and way out in the distance a small bunch of Buffleheads.

scaupcanvasbackfemale canvasbackAnother group of local folks out walking told us we should head further down the shoreline where we would see lots of Redheads and some Swans. So after a bit, we headed back to the car and decided to explore the neighborhood a little further. We headed back up Oakley and took a right onto Belvedere Street. We could see a park with a beach near the water so we headed in that direction. We found Great Marsh Park almost immediately. It was a beautiful neighborhood park where we found maybe 150 Ring-Billed Gulls. If you ever wanted to study Ring Bills, this was the spot. I think they had been attracted by someone feeding them earlier in the day and were hanging around in hopes of more.  We could see the promised Swans and more Canvasbacks further down the shoreline so we headed on out to explore the area further.

nativityWe found the Swans – 6 of them – on Bellevue Avenue that runs along the shoreline. We also found a Bald Eagle high up a tree surveying his domain and possibly the buffet spread out before him on the river.  The Redheads turned out to be Canvasbacks although there might have been a few Redheads in the mix. There were also quite a few Ruddy Ducks and Scaups (although I cannot say whether they were Lesser or Greater) in the mix.  We found an unusual Nativity Scene from Christmas and a single Double Crested Cormorant.  Since we usually see loads of Cormorants in/around the Bay and its watershed, I wondered that we only saw one on this day.  But, most of all, we found about 500 Canada Geese sunning and eating grass in someone’s yard by a pond.

Speaking of eating, we were getting hungry so headed out to lunch on our way now to Blackwater.  Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge is just outside Cambridge and probably no more than 10 miles from Oakley Street.  This makes it convenient to visit both hotspots on a single trip to the area. The Refuge was established in 1933 and encompasses more than 28,000 acres which include marshes, hardwood and pine forests, freshwater wetlands, and cropland. It is smack dab in the middle of the Atlantic Flyway so attracts thousands of migrating waterfowl each winter and probably hundreds (maybe even thousands) of birders and nature enthusiasts.

Refuge overviewIt also boasts a rather large population of Bald Eagles and the refuge has mounted an eagle cam that you can access HERE.  Although it is winter and the Osprey have long since headed south for the winter, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the Osprey Cam which, in summer, can be seen HERE.  However, if you go to the Osprey Cam site today, you’ll probably see a pair of Bald Eagles who have taken over the Osprey platform and have made it their own. I do not believe they are nesting there but they are certainly hunting from the platform and eating there.

eagleThe new visitor center is as marvelous as it promised to be. There is a small souvenir shop along with an interactive museum. Upstairs there is a lovely observation area where you can sit inside where it is warm and watch the masses of geese wintering over in the impound just behind the visitor center.

visitor centerAlthough there are hiking trails, the big draw at Blackwater on a cold winter day is the Nature Drive – a four mile circuit that passes between the impoundments and the Blackwater River.  If you turn right as you exit the Visitor Center parking lot, you will find the nature drive just about a mile away. Before you enter the nature drive, do take a few minutes and go on across the Little Blackwater River…..we have seen quite a few Bald Eagles and smaller ducks in the coves just east of the nature drive entrance along Key Wallace Drive.

canadaThe Refuge was crowded today and the drive was filled with cars creeping along as folks checked out the geese along the way.  I say most were creeping along slowly but there are always some people who drive through a refuge at 30+ miles per hour. I have never figured out how anyone can see any birds moving so quickly though a nature drive….but I have had the same thought about people out hiking quickly down a trail.  How do you possibly see wild animals and birds when you do not slow down and stop to find them? Guess you have to decide – do you want to hike or do you want to bird. Oh well,  we (among the creepers) slowly worked our way through the drive stopping here and there to take a few photographs and just enjoy our day.  We saw about twenty species of birds, the highlights being the Bald Eagles (only 4 today), the Snow Geese (hundreds), a Northern Harrier (nice surprise though not unusual), the Canada Geese (thousands), the Tundra Swans (8), and several massive mixed blackbird flocks that flew through at sunset just as we were wrapping up our day.

snowWith only one little stop left to make on Kent Island – Adam’s Ribs to pick up supper – we headed on back over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge on our way west towards home.  We hadn’t seen any new birds today but we saw a great many old “friends” that we had hoped to see…..all in all, a wonderful start to a brand New Birding Year.