Country Church Tour (Episode 1)

harpers ferryHave you ever gone looking for something and ended up finding another? Started out moving in one direction and ended up going in another? Gone out with one plan in mind only to find out that what you ended up with is so much better?

Well, this is exactly what happened to us recently. Being pretty avid birdwatchers, we are always going out looking for birds. If the birds are not cooperating (as is very normal for the summer months between migration seasons), then we go looking for gardens and flowers – wild or cultivated, it matters not. But mostly we end up roaming around just looking….well, for whatever interests us. This habit has prompted some of our friends to refer to us as being vagabonds….but only on vacations mind you.

So, we headed out on our last trip to southern Virginia with two thoughts in mind – visit a relative and scout out some good birds…which we did. But along the way, we spotted a beautiful old white church and I just had to get a photograph of it. Then there was another and another and another and I had to get pictures of them too.

ideaAnd then out of the depths of my brain a new idea was born…a splendiferous idea….an idea so amazing, I am surprised I had not thought of it before….why, I could write some blogs about old churches. After all, I have written about an old church before (Empty Church/January 2015) but this time I thought I’d do something a little different. I’d photograph the churches, find out what I could about them, and share it with everyone. And I could make this project a series of blogs and continue it on future trips…..when I’m looking for birds and blooms, I’d also look for old churches. Heck, I might even end up with a coffee table book filled with pictures of old churches if I do a good enough job of it…..okay, that might be stretching the dream a little bit but it is worth thinking about sometimes.

Right off the bat, I noticed that old churches are, in one respect, more cooperative than birds….they sit still so you can photograph them. On the other hand, it is turning out to be much easier to find out information on the internet about a particular bird than it is to find out the history of a particular church….especially an old one.

The second thing I noticed is that I like old clapboard painted churches more than old brick ones. But then again, there are some brick churches that are old and architecturally beautiful that I really love. So, I think the appeal for me is that the church be (1) old, (2) relatively small, and (3) out in the country rather than in the city. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’ll probably end up taking pictures of churches in cities too and big ones as well as small ones but I’m starting small and then we will see how this goes.

Without further ado – these first five were selected because they were seen and photographed on our recent visit to the middle peninsula of southern Virginia and because the Historical Society of Mathews County (mathewscountyhistoricalsociety.org) did a historical church tour in 2015 and posted information on the internet about the churches on their tour. That is convenient for me since, as I noted above, most of these old churches I’m finding do not have anything on their internet sites…or even seem to have internet sites. My undying gratitude to the Historical Society at any rate.

Mathews BaptistMathews Baptist Church

8284 Buckley Hall Road, Hudgins, VA 23076              http://www.mathewsbaptistchurch.com/

Now, this is the first church photograph I took on this trip to southern Virginia…the one that started it all so to speak. This church was established in 1776 – same as this country. It was established by itinerant preachers and was originally called Kingston. In 1791, it became known as Mathews Baptist Church when the county of Mathews was officially founded. In 1905, the sanctuary was remodeled and the steeple was added. I am not sure whether the First Baptist Church (below) was the first to use the gingerbread décor on the steeple or if Mathews Baptist had a prior steeple and the current one was just updated in 1905. The gingerbread reminds me of Victorian homes and I have never seen it on a church steeple before that I recall. If you look at the bottom front of the church in the photographs, you will see that renovations are still ongoing and, no doubt, new elements are always being added. The church mission is a good one —To provide the public worship of God; to preach the redeeming love of Christ and lead people to the Savior; to welcome the stranger; to comfort the sorrowing and help the needy; to create the spirit of Christian fellowship; to serve the community; the nation, and the needy world.”

mathews stained glass Mathews Baptist steeple

 

First Baptist Church (Mathews)  mathews 1st baptist

9654 Buckley Hall Road, Mathews, VA 23109

The First Baptist Church in Mathews was founded in 1865. It “came out of” (to quote the Historical Society) the old Baptist church, Mathews Baptist Church. After Emancipation, two hundred and ninety one members of the church requested that their “mission” be changed in status to be a “church”. (Let me take a little break for me to look up some history here. I was a bit confused at the note that the church was founded in 1865 and then “after Emancipation”, a request for a status change was made. I speculate that the congregation had founded a mission prior to the Emancipation Proclamation was passed by executive order on January 1, 1863. But, as we all well know, the American Civil War did not end until 1865 and true emancipation did not come for many slaves until after the war and the Thirteenth Amendment was ratified in 1865. So, after the war, the church was founded when its status was changed. Again, I am speculating because I do not know anything more about this church than I was able to find on the internet.) One thing I love about this church is the lovely steeple with what looks like Victorian gingerbread which is very similar to the steeple at its mother church, Mathews Baptist (above). Also, their mission statement is quite beautiful –Committed to serving God and his people of all races, encouraging them to make Jesus their choice and acknowledging His as the only way to everlasting life.

mathews 1st steeple

mathews 1st stained glass

 

Emmaus Baptist ChurchEmmaus Church

13794 John Clayton Memorial Highway,  North, VA

Emmaus Baptist Church was founded in 1867 and established in 1868. (I am learning that there is a world of difference between being founded, established, chartered, built, etc. when it comes to churches.) Prior to the founding of Emmaus Baptist, blacks who wanted to worship in a church with a sanctuary had to do so over at the First Baptist Church. After emancipation, the founding families, some of whom may have been former slaves, would have undoubtedly wanted a church of their own in which to worship. The land for the church was donated by a Mrs. Harriet Jones who also taught school at the church for some years after it was built. The name “Emmaus” was taken from the New Testament in the Gospel of Luke. It refers to an event in the New Testament where Jesus appeared to two of his disciples as they traveled on the road to Emmaus…this was after Jesus’ resurrection but before his ascension into heaven.

 

 

 

Emmaus stained glass Emmaus cemetery

 

Ebenezer BaptistEbenezer Baptist Church

3601 Buckley Hall Road, Cobbs Creek, VA

Ebenezer Baptist Church was founded in 1875 by a small group of members from the First Baptist Church. (I am seeing a theme here in members of the congregation breaking away and forming a new church nearby in the county. I believe it is the same today and referred to as “planting” new churches in the community although the reasons for starting a new church may vary.) In the 1890’s, land was purchased and a clapboard structure was built. I was not able to go inside but, per the Historical Society tour notes, there are two Captain’s chairs at the altar that were used throughout the years to support caskets for funerals. The pews are painted wood….men sat on the right (the Hallelujah side) and women sat on the left (the Amen side). Light was provided by oil lamps and chandeliers. In 1908 a cornerstone was laid for the presently existing church and in 1914 a metal ceiling was installed. Of course, now I’m thinking I may need to go back and go inside some of these churches. I recall large wooden chairs behind the pulpit in churches I attended when I was younger but do not recall them being called “Captain’s chairs”. Now I wonder if they were also used to support caskets for funerals before the advent of those metal rolling gurney-like tables provided by funeral homes today.

Ebenezer steeple Ebenezer stained glass

 

Gwynns IslandGwynn’s Island Baptist Church

2011 Old Ferry Road Gwynn,  VA 23066     http://www.gibchurch.com/

Now this church is very cooperative – not only do they have a website, they have a Facebook page! Very up and coming for a church that was started way back in July 1874. But, once again, we find that the original congregants, thirty five of them, came over from Mathews Baptist Church. They acquired ¼ acre of land for $25 in February 1875 and built their church. The first pastor was Charles A. Raymond. By 1889, they had organized a Sunday School….or at least that was the first mention of Sunday School in their historical documents online. The longest pastor to serve the congregation was I.E. Belch who was pastor for twenty-six years. Their mission is Serving the Lord by Serving Others”.

 

Gwynns Island stained glass

 

 

Again, most of the information on these churches in Mathews County comes from the Mathews County Historical Society. However, I would love to hear more about these churches if you happen to know anyone who has or still attends these churches and have more information to share. And, if you like this idea, please comment and let me know……I’m finding lots of churches to photograph so would like to share more of them in future blogs.

A Man and His Manor – Harvey S. Ladew

Ladew Manor overlooking the Wildflower Meadow.

He wasn’t really a visionary. Well, at least not where having a long and storied career with lots of financial success was concerned or where he invented something that changed the world even though one might never make much money on it. After all, saving the world brings success in its own right without having to dither over whether or not he was worth this many million dollars or that many.

Hallway in the foyer of the manor.

entry

Now, let me back up and correct myself…..our protagonist, Harvey S. Ladew II, did live a life filled with many memories and stories. At least the docent at the Manor had lots of stories to tell when we took the Ladew Manor tour last week so I will assume that Mr. Ladew, the last of his line, enjoyed telling tales of his travels and adventures during his life and didn’t just leave them in an old trunk somewhere for the docent to find at some point a hundred years or so down the road to tell to tour attendees.

Harvey Ladew was indeed a success if you define it in terms of living life on his own terms, having adventures with the likes of T.E. Lawrence (of Arabia) and young Prince Faisal (way before he became the King of Saudi Arabia) as he traveled the world at the turn of the 20th century, and hobnobbing with other renowned celebrities….like Cole Porter and Clark Gable and Somerset Maugham. But, more important to me, Ladew was a success when it comes to building beautiful gardens….like those at his estate near Monkton, Maryland.

Which is what brought me to the Manor in the first place….the gardens. And, it was those gardens that hindered my tour of the manor once I got there. I’d really like to say that I took the tour and totally enjoyed all the docent’s wild stories about Mr. Ladew and all the antiques and everything manor-ly…but I cannot.

That’s because we had started in the gardens and roamed around a bit in the sun and then rushed up the hill to the house for the tour….where I arrived hot and exhausted. I found that standing in one spot listening to the docent talk didn’t work out too well for me or my aching, arthritic joints. So, I considered……I could further sap my strength and aggravate my back and hip standing listening to the docent….or I could find a cool spot to sit and save myself for the rest of the gardens.

Dining Room

Dining Room at Ladew Manor

Tick-tock, tick-tock….yep, it only took me two seconds to consider that deal. I opted to rest and save myself for the gardens. With 22 acres of gardens, I knew I might not get through them all but I was going to give it a shot. So, I gave my dear and long-suffering husband (he suffers for my art) instructions to get some good stories and take some photos and I found the one chair in the foyer that wasn’t roped off or otherwise marked with a no touching, no sitting sign…… and I sat down right by the door to wait.

silver dollar

According to the docent’s tale, the original owners of the home embedded this silver dollar into the stair newel post the year they paid off the original mortgage – 1847. Amazing that the coin survived these 169 years. I’m thinking about getting a silver dollar for our stairs….if we ever get the mortgage paid off, that is.

So, here’s the gist of what I heard – much of it second hand, of course. (And I supplemented the stories with some information from the estate website and the internet.)

Harvey S. Ladew II was born on April 6, 1887 to a wealthy family in New York. His father had made a fortune selling industrial leather belts. You know, before there were electric motors and such, they used pulleys and gears all connected with huge leather belts. Harvey had one sister named Elise who married into money on her own….well, more money since her family had money already…..but she has her own story to tell so I won’t add more on that here. Harvey never married and had no children…so his legacy was his manor and his gardens.

The slippers shown below are called “pinks” not because of the color. Each hunt club had it’s own colors. Ladew’s club colors just happened to be red….faded here over the years to look more pink than red. When you came in from the hunt, you pulled off your muddy boots and put on your “pinks” to wear in the house.

hunting gearAs a child, Harvey was educated by private tutor at home and spent some years learning to draw from the curators at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. He didn’t really have any formal schooling and didn’t attend college at all, let alone an Ivy League College….although it seems that he ran with an Ivy League crowd. As such, Harvey was home-schooled and/or self-taught…not unusual at the time.

According to the Ladew Topiary Gardens website, Ladew spoke several languages and learned French as a child before he learned English. He served in World War I as an Army liaison officer where his fluency in French and other languages was noted and he became quite helpful to his commanding officers.

But, what Harvey Ladew loved most was hunting – particularly, fox hunting. After his parents died, he discovered that, after liquidating the leather belt factory and other familial assets, there was a good bit of money……that would allow him to do some serious fox-hunting….pretty much anywhere he wanted to do so. In fact, he calculated (according to the docent) that he could live quite comfortably into his fifties and might not ever have to find a job and actually work for a living. As it turns out, Mr. Ladew had under-estimated and, though he lived to a ripe old age of 89, he never had to give it all up and get a job. It’s a good gig if you can get it….being part of the 1% and all.

So, he spent his life as a traveler, an artist, a fox-hunter, and as a gardener. Well, let’s say a designer of gardens….well, let’s say as a designer of his own gardens and estate…..although he was a friendly kind of guy so I’m sure he gave all sorts of gardening advice to his friends over the years. Ladew bought the 200-plus acre estate in Monkton, Maryland in 1929 because fox hunting was big in Maryland….and, did I mention, Ladew loved fox-hunting.

boot gearRiding gear: 1. Tool for stuffing your pant legs into your boots. 2. Button Hooks for boots 3. Tool for pulling your boots up by its straps/loops. 4. Shoe horn for boots.

riding gear 2More riding/hunting gear…..necessities really…..at least the flask and sandwich holder are.  The item in the center is a mystery to me.

When he first came to Maryland looking for new hunting grounds, he leased a property next door to a hunt club in Monkton. Later, he bought the old Pleasant Valley Farms nearby and made the estate his own. He spent his summers in Maryland and traveling the world hunting and exploring and having adventures and spent his winters at his estate (Pied a Mer) near Delray Beach, Florida. It was an amazingly difficult life….so much to do, so many foxes to chase, so many topiaries to design…..so little time.

knock off abstractNo, that’s not a real Picasso. Apparently, Ladew hated Picasso’s abstract works and was somewhat vocal about it. As a joke, a friend gave him a “knock off” Picasso….a portrait of Ladew.  It appears that he treasured the gift enough to keep it in spite of his feelings about abstract art.

So when he wasn’t hunting and having adventures, Ladew visited gardens. In England he visited famous gardens….some designed by Gertrude Jekyll. Back home, he set out to build beautiful gardens at the estate similar to those he had seen in England and France. He liked topiaries so decided to design a topiary garden. The rest is history. He designed and built 15 different themed gardens spread out over more than 22 acres. Before he died in 1976, Ladew himself set up the not-for-profit organization to preserve his beautiful gardens and share them with the world. The gardens and manor were opened to the public in 1971 and this year marks its 45th anniversary.

steinwayLadew could play the piano and enjoyed entertaining his guests on the baby grand, a Steinway of course. But apparently he wasn’t very good so the story goes that the guests stayed for the first song but usually had excused themselves and left the room before the second song was completed.

Ceiling DetailCeiling detail in the sitting room. Ladew had it put in and wanted it to look as old as the house but it was pretty much stark white and looked very shiny and new so he closed the damper on the fireplace and let the place fill with sooty wood smoke. Viola! He got the look he wanted….an antique ceiling.

upstairs wine cooler

Wine cooler in the upstairs sitting room at the top of the stairs near his bedroom.

mama trophyLadew wasn’t crazy about all his mother’s trophies (she was quite the horsewoman herself) so had them melted down and used the silver to make a punchbowl. I think this was a great idea…although his mother might not have agreed.

living roomLiving Room Downstairs. Note that the subject of most of the paintings is horses with maybe a fox or two thrown in for good measure.

side room

sitting roomming horseSomewhere in the past 1200 years since this horse (perhaps Ming Dynasty) was crafted, he lost his tail. 

libraryCircular Library with the hidden door…allows for a quick exit out the back of the house into the gardens.

With respect to his gardens, Harvey Ladew succeeded magnificently. While I missed a few stories and a few rooms on the tour of the manor, I am glad that I saved myself for the gardens….they were, after all, what I had come to see.

If you would like to visit Ladew Manor and Topiary Gardens, the address is 3535 Jarrettsville Pike, Monkton, MD 21111. The website is http://www.ladewgardens.com/.